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Creamy and tangy, yogurt’s thicker sibling enhances food

JUDY HEVRDEJS, Chicago Tribune

Publication: The Day

Published June 12. 2013 4:00AM   Updated June 12. 2013 2:36PM
E. Jason Wambsgans/Chicago Tribune/MCT)
If using Greek yogurt in cooking, you can use it in place of sour cream.

We spoon up so much yogurt at breakfast, lunch and dinner that we spent $7.3 billion on the tart stuff last year.

Its creamy texture and good-for-your-gut benefits are draws. So are the varieties: full fat, nonfat and low fat; organic and conventional; honey sweetened or plain, fruit on the bottom or swirled throughout.

Among these cultured denizens of the dairy case, it's Greek yogurt that's getting lots of attention.

Retail sales in the U.S. of this thicker-than-regular yogurt increased more than 50 percent in 2012 to reach $1.6 billion, according to Packaged Facts, a Rockville, Md., market researcher. Such numbers, they say, have pretzel, salad dressing and cereal-makers jumping on the Greek yogurt bandwagon.

Greek yogurt's appeal is easy to understand. It's deliciously thick and creamy, it plays well in recipes, its ingredient list is simple (milk plus live cultures) and its tartness dovetails with our fondness for fermented foods (pickles, beer, etc.).

"There's been a lot of marketing with the Greek yogurts. And people like the thick texture of the Greek variety," says registered dietitian Sarah Krieger, an Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics spokesperson. "If you're using Greek yogurt in cooking, basically you can use it anywhere that sour cream is used."

Subbing Greek yogurt for sour cream in many recipes cuts calories and sodium, while delivering more protein. "If you're making a cold soup that uses sour cream, I would swap it out for nonfat Greek yogurt," she says. "You're getting more nutrition with the Greek yogurt."

Its acidity also works well as a marinade for meats and poultry. "It's great for baked fish or chicken. If you're using it instead of mayonnaise, you're actually using less fat and you're adding a little bit of protein and a little bit of calcium," says Krieger, a St. Petersburg, Fla., mom. She spreads yogurt on whitefish, then mixes dried herbs with breadcrumbs or panko to sprinkle atop before baking.

"With yogurt, almost anything goes, the possibilities of cooking with it are infinite," wrote Arto Der Haroutunian in "The Yogurt Cookbook: Recipes From Around the World" (Interlink Books, $35). The late author, restaurateur and artist suggested using it in place of cream, milk, buttermilk and sour cream.

"It makes an excellent marinade and goes well with vegetables, eggs, meat, poultry, cheese and grains," writes Der Haroutunian, whose book boasts 200-plus recipes, including a garlic sauce (yogurt mixed with a crushed garlic clove, finely chopped green onion, a bit of salt and dried mint) for serving atop fried-we like grilled-slices of zucchini or eggplant.

Greek yogurt, like regular yogurt, can be temperamental in the presence of heat. If you're using it in cooking, it will curdle if you cook it over high heat, says Krieger, who suggests using low heat or stirring Greek yogurt into sauces at the end of cooking for texture and creaminess.

Nutritional differences between Greek and regular yogurts are due in part to the number of times each is strained. Regular yogurt is strained twice to remove liquid (called whey); Greek yogurt is strained three times, which makes it thicker and sometimes tarter.

"Regular yogurt has more whey, that is more of the liquid where most of the lactose - also known as the carbohydrate - is found," says Krieger. "So when the whey is removed, you're left with a higher concentration of protein. That's why you'll see more protein in nonfat Greek yogurt than of the same amount of regular nonfat."

Yet another reason to give tart, thick, creamy Greek yogurt a role to play in your culinary creations.

SKEWERED CHICKEN (MURGH TIKKA)

Serves 4

Adapted from "The Yogurt Cookbook" by Arto Der Haroutunian (Interlink Books, $35). The author suggests serving it with a tomato and onion salad, plus rice pilaf or the Indian bread, chapati. Two-percent Greek yogurt was used in our testing.

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs

1 onion, roughly chopped

2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

Juice of 1 large lemon

1 ¼ cups plain Greek yogurt

2 teaspoons each: ground coriander, salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or mint

Cut chicken into 1-inch cubes. Put the onion, garlic, ginger and lemon juice in a blender; puree until smooth. Empty paste into a large non-reactive bowl. Add yogurt, coriander, salt and cumin; mix well. Add chicken pieces; turn until well coated. Cover; refrigerate overnight.

Remove chicken from marinade, discarding marinade; thread pieces on skewers. Cook on a grill or under a broiler, turning frequently, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve sprinkled with chopped mint or cilantro.

Greek yogurt in the kitchen

Plain Greek yogurt's thickness works for dips, on spicy foods, baked potatoes and adds another flavor dimension to some condiments. Remember:

Liquid (whey) may pool at the top of yogurt. Dietitian Sarah Krieger says: It's a good source of calcium so stir it back into the yogurt.

Because yogurt is acidic, use a nonreactive dish when marinating foods or storing yogurt.

Overstirring yogurt may thin its consistency.

It may be warmed gently, but do not boil.

To stabilize yogurt for a dish that may be cooked at a higher heat, cookbook author Arto Der Haroutunian suggests: Stir 1 to 2 teaspoons flour into a little water then add to yogurt before cooking. Or beat an egg into the yogurt before cooking.

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